FOOD FOR THE SEOUL SOUL

The last time I went to Korea, I made sure I went on a quick diet so there would be space for my food babies I'd inevitably have when I had to leave.

Seoul is one of those places that is a sensory experience; the sounds of clinking soju glasses, the smells of Korean BBQ and spicy gochuchang marinating meats, the constant cuteness everywhere, the sights of trendy and irreverent fashion boutiques. Taste though, has got to be one of the most memorable senses. Whether it's sharing a grilled galbi meal with friends, walking down the shopping streets of Myeongdong, Namdaemun, or Dongdaemun with an ice cream or a sweet dumpling, or just scarfing down a bowl of summer noodles or kimbap on your work lunch break - food surrounds you everywhere, at all hours of the day and night.

The star of the show, the spice of life here, is red pepper - the supreme ingredient in Gochuchang, the sauce of Korean BBQ. Sesame oil, soy sauce, green onions, rice, kimchi, garlic, and sticky sweet rice dough called deok are additionally crucial to have in any Korean kitchen. Korean food is traditional, it's spicy with a lingering sweetness, it's heavy on rice and fermented vegetables. It's loaded with banchan, little side dish plates which are consistently replenished at no extra charge. I honestly don't understand how people stay so skinny. There is just SO much food here to indulge in.

ONE DAY OF GLUTTONY IN THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM

Breakfast ...

Is not really a thing here. Sorry. It's just not at all. Brunches are only offered at the Western style or International restaurants, and serve pancakes, waffles, eggs, bacon... standard American affair. Koreans traditionally eat a similar menu as lunch in the morning : rice, vegetables, kimchi, pajeon (korean savory pancake), tea. Seoul is very sleepy in the morning, really shining during the late night hours of 2:00 - 5:00 AM. Eat a bowl of rice or some fruit, and save your money for lunch.

Ok, but I understand if you MUST have breakfast. If you are awakened every morning from the sounds of your own stomach juices rebelling against your brain and demanding justice, I recommend a coffee shop. Korean culture is heavily influenced by all the cute cafes, and there are so many coffee shops to choose from that feature exquisite waffles with fresh fruit toppings, gelato, and other sweet goods like red bean paste and chocolate chunks.

For example, Thank's Nature's Cafe in Hongdae has these adorable sheep that you can hang out with while enjoying a waffle and a matcha latte designed in the sheep's likeness.

Lunch Lunch Lunch

I'd like to introduce you to my favorite thing to eat in Seoul. It's called Daek Galbi, and it's basically grilled marinated chicken with the option to add sweet potato, noodles, and rice cake. But it's so much more.

In the beginning, a grill is covered in cabbage. Then, the slow transformation adds scallions, marinated chicken in a sweet spicy sauce, sweet potato, noodles, rice cake, and after simmering together for a few minutes, everyone can enjoy the heavenly combination together.

After you feel so stuffed you consider getting your stomach pumped, you can tell the server that you're finished. But you still have to eat. The last step in the process of Daek Galbi is scraping the charred bits and leftover chicken and sauce, mixing it with fresh white rice, and adding special seaweed seasoning to make the best fried rice ever.

A recommended restaurant specializing in Daek Galbi is a chain, but don't let that fool you-- quality is always superb here at Yoogane

Snacks on snacks on snacks

If you are able to move after your Korean BBQ Daek Galbi, I recommend walking it off on the streets of Myeongdong, Hongdae, or Namdaemun to get some serious shopping cardio on. When you get hungry again, and you hopefully will in few hours, there are street food options to keep your pallet electric and blissful for the rest of the day. Here are some of the treats I tried the last time I was in Seoul!

김법 - Kimbap + 떡 벅 이 -Daekbokki

Let's say you spent all your won on that dress in the boutique you just HAD to have, and a little too many face masks are poking out of your suitcase. You had to buy another bag to fit all your makeup products and the calendar of your favorite K-Pop stars is taking up the space where your clothes should go.
Dining on a budget is easy here. There's no tax or tip required on meals, so the price is what you pay, no more no less. Even with a handful of coins, it's easy to stay full if you walk down a market and grab some Kimbap (above), a version of sushi that doesn't include raw fish, or Daekbokki, a savory and spicy mixture of rice cake, fish cake, and a red gojuchang inspired sauce.
These together cost 4,000 ₩, which comes to about $4 US. And we were definitely not hungry afterwards.

계 런 뻥 - Gyeran Bbang - Sweet Egg Bread Thing

It's a donut, or a biscuit, or a bread roll, or a pastry... breakfast or a snack or a dessert .... this is what I call sweet egg bread thing, and it is quite something.
Find this on your typical street food street, and sample this cheap little concoction for about 1,000₩ or $1.
I could eat about 1,000 of these, to be quite honest, they are delectable.

번 데 기 Beondaegi - Straight up Boiled Bugs

Not for the faint hearted, this strong scented vat of bugs will attack your nose from afar, leading you to wonder what the appeal is to boiling silkworm pupa. Youtube blogger "Best Ever Food Review" describes it HERE as "exoskeletony" and "if a mattress was boiled for five hours." They smell like old shoes caught in the rain, but are around every festival and market, considered tasty by a lot of Koreans and obviously an acquired taste. But... possibly the protein source of the future? Adventurous eaters will take pride in sharing their story of trying Bundaegi.

송 펑 - Songpyeong - Rice Cake Sweet Filling Thing.

This is rice cake with a peanutey honey filling, a savory sweet treat. The rice cake is chewy and mild, the filling is satisfying and addictive. There are a lot of 'rice cake sweet filling' desserts as well, and I highly encourage you to try them all.

Matcha Ice Cream Cones

The best flavors, matcha and vanilla ice cream cone on the streets of Myeongdong; a perfect break from a long shopping adventure. One of many street food options here, I have to say this ice cream was positively stunning in flavor and quality. Definitely makes shopping a little easire to handle, and necessary in the hot, sweltering summers of Seoul.

붕어빵 - Bungoebbang - or Fish Bread Red Bean Filled Pastry Thing.

This is so yummy. Sweets in Asia tend to be less sickeningly sweet than American treats, and I actually prefer it that way. The bread in this pastry is cakey and soft, the red bean paste in the middle serves as a perfect complimentary flavor.

Kimchi Dumplings

Oh yeah. My travel companion and I stopped talking during the process of consuming these darling little dumplings of joy. The kimchi was hot and fresh, the dough soft and practically melted in our mouths.
Kimchi has a beautiful spice to it, like your tongue is getting a suntan but accidentally forgot sunscreen and gets a little bit burned. The flavor lingers and reminds you that you should have some more....

As if Candy Could Be Cuter...

Cotton Candy gets a makeover. Korean cuteness is infiltrated in most objects, clothing, and sometimes even food. What I appreciate about Korean culture is the acceptance of cute things for adults; women wear headbands with bows, frilly dresses, and it's not considered childish or lame! It's just CUTE AS HELL!
Embrace the cute girl inside of you.

Watermelon Soju in a Bulb

This is a lightbulb filled with a soju cocktail, found in Hongdae. It's watermelon juice and soju, no added sugar, freshly squeezed and oh so refreshing. You can roam the streets carrying this tasty lightbulb and not worry about breaking any rules. There are no open container laws here. This soju cocktail was so amazing and without the added sugar, it was practically guilt free!

Are you still hungry? Okay fat ass, head over to the Korean BBQ restaurant and enjoy another feast!

Koreans might linger and chat for hours over dinner and soju. It's a very communal event, and not many people dine alone in this city. Go for the BBQ and stay for the conversation, people watching, and the soju cocktail pitchers. BBQ restaurants in Seoul tend to be quite lively and festive, laughter and the cheers of "gambae" heard interwoven between the sounds of kitchen clanking, the "yogiyo!" calls to gain the server's attention, and the sizzle of the meat as it flips over your table's personal grill. This meal is a team effort, and you are responsible for cooking your own shared meal.

Banchan dishes are spread throughout the table, ranging from various forms of kimchi to cooked spinach in sesame oil, to fish cakes, tofu, or bean sprouts. Grab a lettuce leaf, a piece of cooked meat, dip it in the special oil and salted sauces, add your favorite amount of gochuchang, fold it over like a burrito and you got yourself a 'beef and leaf'.

I love the interaction that Korean BBQ encourages, and I'm always a sharer with food. Are you going to finish that? Is something I'm prone to saying, either with words or with my very hungry eyes.

Recommended Restaurants

Honestly, you can't really go wrong here. As you stroll through any of the Seoul neighborhoods, you will find multiple delightful places to eat. Choose based on the size of the crowds eating inside, and you'll be golden.

Some important phrases to know before you eat:

Delicious = Mashisoyo

Waiter! I Need You Now! = Yogiyo!

More Beer Please = Tau maekchu juseyo

Thank you for this food! = Chal mot get sumnida

Let's EAT! = Mokja

I'm hungry = Paegopayo!

We really loved the kimchi dumplings. And are very aggressive about our food.

Enjoy your day in Seoul, hungry little monsters!

XO

Seoul, Korea for the Fabulous Foodie